in
History
—
The Dirty Secret of Powdered Wigs: How Syphilis Styled an Era
Powdered wigs weren't just a fashion choice in 17th-18th century Europe. They were a practical solution to the rampant syphilis epidemic, covering hair loss and sores. What began as a medical cover-up, popularized by kings, quickly evolved into an extravagant symbol of wealth and status.
When we picture the 17th and 18th centuries, images of powdered wigs—the grand, white coiffures of European aristocracy—often come to mind. We associate them with composers, revolutionaries, and royalty. But this iconic fashion statement has a dark and surprisingly practical origin story, rooted not in vanity, but in the devastating effects of a rampant pandemic: syphilis.
A Pox on European Society
Beginning in the late 15th century, Europe was in the grip of a syphilis epidemic, often called the “Great Pox.” With no effective cure, the disease ravaged populations for centuries. Its symptoms were not only debilitating but also publicly humiliating. Sufferers experienced open sores, unsightly rashes, blindness, dementia, and, most visibly, patchy, premature hair loss. In an era without antibiotics, contracting the disease was a slow, public decline.
The Royal Cover-Up
The trend of wearing wigs, or perukes, as a solution began at the very top of the social ladder. In 1624, King Louis XIII of France began wearing a wig to hide his thinning hair. However, it was his son, the famously flamboyant King Louis XIV, who truly cemented the wig as an essential accessory for European nobles. As the “Sun King” also began to go bald at a young age (many historians suspect from syphilis), he adopted elaborate perukes to maintain his powerful and virile image. To be in favor at the French court, you had to emulate the king. As a Reddit user aptly noted in a discussion on the topic, fashion often follows power. The trend quickly spread to other courts, most notably England, when Charles II brought the style back with him after his exile in France. Soon, no man of means or status would be seen without his wig.
From Medical Necessity to Status Symbol
What began as a way to hide the ghastly effects of disease quickly morphed into a symbol of wealth and status. Perukes were incredibly expensive, crafted from human hair, horsehair, or goat hair. The bigger and more elaborate the wig, the more important the wearer. These wigs were often unhygienic and became breeding grounds for lice, which led to the invention of elegant, long-handled wig scratchers.
For the elite, the peruke was a finely crafted artifice, a way to project an image of perfection and virility, even when the body beneath was failing.
To deal with the smell of the unwashed hair and the sores underneath, the wigs were coated in powder. This powder, typically made from finely ground starch, was perfumed with scents like lavender or orange blossom to mask any unpleasant odors. The whitest wigs were the most fashionable, signaling that the owner could afford the best powder and didn't need to perform manual labor.
The Fall of the Peruke
Like all fashion trends, the reign of the powdered wig came to an end. Its demise was hastened by social upheaval and economics. The French Revolution saw the wig as a potent symbol of the aristocracy, and wearing one became politically dangerous. In Britain, Prime Minister William Pitt levied a tax on hair powder in 1795, making the style too costly for most. By the 19th century, a more natural aesthetic had taken hold, and the era of the peruke was over, leaving behind a fascinating lesson in how crisis, disease, and social pressure can shape even the most iconic trends.