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The Pavlova Wars: Unraveling the Sweet Mystery of a Trans-Tasman Dessert
The Pavlova, a meringue dessert named for ballerina Anna Pavlova, is fiercely claimed by both Australia and New Zealand. While the debate rages, research suggests its true origins are European, predating the iconic dancer's tour and making this a truly international affair.
Crisp on the outside, soft and marshmallowy within, topped with whipped cream and a cascade of fresh fruit—the Pavlova is a dessert masterpiece. For decades, it has been a staple at celebrations across Australia and New Zealand. But behind its sweet façade lies a decades-long culinary dispute as fierce as any sporting rivalry: who actually invented it?
A Dessert Fit for a Ballerina
The dessert's namesake is the legendary Russian ballerina Anna Pavlova, who toured both Australia and New Zealand in the 1920s. Her ethereal grace and lightness captivated audiences Down Under, and both nations claim to have created the airy meringue dessert in her honor. For years, this shared inspiration has been the basis of a sweet, yet sometimes sour, tug-of-war for bragging rights.
New Zealand's Case: First on Paper
New Zealand's claim is largely rooted in written evidence. While stories abound of a chef at a Wellington hotel creating the dessert in 1926 during Pavlova's tour, the Kiwis' trump card is a recipe for a 'Pavlova' published in a 1929 issue of the NZ Dairy Exporter's Annual. This is widely considered the first recorded recipe bearing the name, giving New Zealand a strong, documented claim to being the first to officially name the dish.
Australia's Counter-Claim: A Perth Creation
Australia's side of the story centers on Chef Herbert Sachse of the Hotel Esplanade in Perth. He is said to have created the dessert in 1935, with one diner remarking that it was "as light as Pavlova." While this story is a cherished piece of Australian culinary folklore, it places the invention several years after New Zealand's published recipes, a fact that Kiwis are always quick to point out.
Unearthing a Deeper Truth
Just when the debate seemed settled in New Zealand's favor, new research muddied the waters. Food historians Dr. Andrew Paul Wood (a New Zealander) and Annabelle Utrecht (an Australian) embarked on a multi-year project to find the definitive answer. Their findings were surprising: the Pavlova wasn't invented in either country. Instead, it evolved from much older European desserts, particularly the Austrian-German meringue gateau known as the Spanische Windtorte. These recipes traveled with immigrants to America before eventually making their way to Australia and New Zealand.
The Pavlova is a direct descendant of the German torte, which was changed in America to become much lighter, with the addition of cornflour and vinegar. It migrated to Australia and New Zealand where it was eventually crystallised into its modern form.
Their research uncovered over 150 recipes for similar meringue-based cakes that pre-date Anna Pavlova's 1926 tour. While New Zealand may have been the first to name it 'Pavlova', neither country can lay claim to inventing the dessert from scratch.
A Rivalry Served with Cream
Today, the origin debate has simmered into a good-natured rivalry. The Pavlova has become a national symbol for both countries, a testament to a shared cultural history, even if its deepest roots lie elsewhere. Whether you're in Sydney or Auckland, one thing is certain: a slice of Pavlova is a delicious tradition worth fighting for, no matter where it truly came from.