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Food & Lifestyle
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Malört: The Vile Liqueur Chicagoans Love to Hate (and Force on Their Friends)
Malört, Chicago's infamous wormwood liqueur, is a true test of grit. Known for its shockingly bitter taste, this Prohibition-era spirit has become a cultural staple and a bizarre rite of passage, bonding friends and newcomers through the shared trauma of the notorious 'Malört Face'.
In the world of spirits, some are celebrated for their smoothness, complexity, or delicate botanicals. And then there's Malört. A Chicago-born institution, this Swedish-style liqueur is less a beverage and more a dare, a practical joke, and a peculiar rite of passage. Its reputation is built not on flavor, but on the sheer, unadulterated shock it delivers to the palate.
A Taste of Prohibition-Era Grit
The story begins with Carl Jeppson, a Swedish immigrant in Chicago who started making his version of a traditional bäsk liqueur—a spirit distilled with wormwood. During Prohibition, Jeppson cleverly sold his concoction as a medicinal tonic for stomach worms. His sales pitch was brutally honest: its horrifically bitter taste was proof of its potent medicinal properties. The legend was born, and even after Prohibition ended, Jeppson's Malört remained a fixture in the city's working-class bars.
What Does It Actually Taste Like?
Describing Malört is a creative writing exercise in disgust. The official marketing has historically leaned into the challenge. One of the old bottle labels proudly stated:
Most first-time drinkers of Jeppson Malört reject our liquor. Its taste is rugged and unrelenting, but let it be said, we didn't make it for them. ... It is not for the faint of heart, and we guarantee you will never forget your first time. Forever.
Online descriptions are even more colorful, painting a vivid picture of the experience. It has been compared to everything from gasoline and grapefruit peels to earwax and pencil shavings. Perhaps the most infamous description floating around the internet is that it tastes:
like swallowing a burnt condom filled with gasoline.
The flavor profile is an aggressive, lingering bitterness derived from wormwood—the same botanical famously used in absinthe, but without any of the pleasantries like anise or sugar to soften the blow. The initial taste is often followed by a strange, grapefruit-like aftertaste that clings to your tongue for an eternity.
The 'Malört Face': A Windy City Welcome
So, why would anyone willingly drink this? The answer has little to do with enjoyment and everything to do with community. Drinking Malört is a shared experience, a social ritual that binds people together. It’s about proving your toughness, welcoming an out-of-towner to Chicago life, or simply seeing the look on your friend’s face after they take their first shot. That look—a contorted grimace of shock, betrayal, and regret—is known as the 'Malört Face', and it's a badge of honor for both the victim and the instigator.
In recent years, what was once a local secret has seen a resurgence. Bartenders in the craft cocktail scene have started to embrace its challenging flavor, using it in small quantities to add a uniquely bitter dimension to their creations. But at its heart, Malört remains a shot, a dare, and a story waiting to be told. It’s the spirit of Chicago in a bottle: tough, unapologetic, and unforgettable.